A Tree - Saving Fruit Smoothie
Farmers: Amazon estuary river people
Produce: organic açaí fruit
What happens when a fruit that was once enjoyed locally by the people of the Amazon suddenly becomes a hip superfood for the fitness and health-conscious crowd in Rio de Janeiro and across the United States? For one thing, demand for the fruit grows dramatically.
Such is the case for the once little-known purple fruit of the açaí palm tree, farmed as a staple food for generations by the river people of the Amazon. In the last two decades, a frozen slush of the fruit has become popular internationally because of açaí's nutritional ingredients. It contains high levels of vitamin C, monounsaturated fats, fiber, and antioxidants. The drink has garnered raves from such celebrities as Sting, Andre Agassi, and supermodel Gisele Bundchen. Last year, the Wall Street Journal even heralded açaí as "the hip new taste."
Capitalizing on the fruit's popularity, in 1998, a company named Sambazon began exporting
açaí berry to the United States and later to Italy and Australia. Smart thinking: Sambazon, the largest exporter of açaí since 2000, now rakes in some $2 million a year. One might imagine that the boom would lead to overfarming or deforestation of the fragile Amazon rain forest. Yet that has not been the case, thanks to earlier farming lessons learned in the Amazon and the implementation of sustainable agro-forestry techniques.
Learning from the past
In the mid-1980s, demand for another part of the açaí tree-the heart of palm, an ivory-colored, fibrous substance found inside the trunk and used in salads in urban South America-caused entire groves of the
açaí trees to be destroyed. When Sambazon began exporting the fruit, the company founders worked with Brazil's Federation of Organizations for Social Assistance and Education (FASE), a non-governmental organization that has been working with the grower associations for the last 20 years in order to improve the farmers' standard of living and to ensure that açaí harvesting did not follow this previous destructive pattern
"Now, the açaí-maintained areas actually act as a buffer zone, protecting the deeper forest from loggers," says Travis Baumgardner, director of Sambazon do Brasil. The interest in and demand for açaí is now so great, believes Baumgardner, that if the local farmers weren't monitored by FASE, they would probably chop down all other trees to farm the fruit on a monoculture basis, posing a threat to regional biodiversity.
?Instead, the açaí fruit is harvested slowly by hand, the way it's been done for generations. Because the area is in the flooded tidal forest, there is no mechanized way to harvest açaí. Instead, local couples do the work. The man climbs the tree trunk, about 30 feet high, chops off an açaí bunch full of ripe berries, and brings it down to the woman, usually his wife, who picks the fruit off the bunch and fills up baskets. Once the baskets are full, someone in the family will use a canoe or motorboat to take the baskets to a drop-off point for manufacturing in the nearest village. Picked açaí needs to be processed within 24 hours or the fruit oxidizes and loses its nutritional value.
Throughout the process, FASE's forest engineers and ecologists ensure that the families are farming their plots sustainably, following a strict set of regulations. For example, 20 percent to 30 percent of tree and plant species other than açaí must be maintained in the açaí grove to secure biodiversity; trunks older than nine years are cut down to encourage younger sprouts; and taller trees of other species are trimmed to give the açaí trees better light.
In addition, not all the açaí is harvested. About 30 percent of the fruit falls to the ground or is eaten by birds and other animals, which helps guarantee biodiversity. Of the picked açaí, each family keeps about a third to eat and use as fertilizer for small vegetable and herb gardens located close to their homes. Families are also encouraged to introduce other native fruit-tree species with commercial value, such as cupuaçu and tapereba, together with the açaí.
"The Sambazon supply chain of açaí is adding value to the forest by increasing biodiversity, conserving soils, and encouraging the river people to diversify their incomes," says Baumgardner. "As well as being the most important dietary staple for the dwellers of the Amazon flooded forest, sustainable, wild-harvested açaí is also one of the best ways to protect the regional biocultural diversity."
Alex Bellos spent five years in Brazil as the correspondent for the London Guardian and has traveled widely in the Amazon region.
Written By: Alex Bellos
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